If you pull a dead battery from your watch, calculator, or key fob and it reads "LR1130" — you will find at least a dozen other numbers on equivalent batteries at the store. AG10, LR54, 389, 390, SR1130W, 189, 1130. They all fit the same hole. But they are not all interchangeable.

This guide gives you the complete cross-reference chart, explains the choice that actually matters (alkaline vs. silver oxide), walks you through the 389 vs. 390 confusion, and covers the one dangerous mistake to avoid: never use a CR1130.

The LR1130 is a small button cell measuring 11.6mm diameter × 3.1mm height. It is an alkaline cell with a nominal voltage of 1.5V, found in wristwatches, calculators, key fobs, digital thermometers, small toys, and hearing aids.

LR1130 Physical Specifications

All the Names for LR1130

The key decision when selecting an LR1130 equivalent is chemistry: alkaline or silver oxide.

Alkaline Equivalents — 1.5V

Silver Oxide Equivalents — 1.55V

Which Should You Choose?

This is the question that trips up almost everyone. Both 389 and 390 are silver oxide batteries that fit the LR1130 slot. They look identical. But they are not the same.

The "W" in SR1130W stands for "wide temperature" — indicating it is engineered for higher instantaneous current demands. The "SW" adds "S" for stable — optimized for steady low-current draw over a longer period.

Can You Use 389 and 390 Interchangeably?

In most cases, yes — but there is a nuance. Installing a 389 in a device designed for 390 works fine. Installing a 390 in a high-drain device may result in shorter battery life. If unsure, use 389 as the universal fallback — it works in both high-drain and low-drain devices.

Rule of thumb: When in doubt, buy 389. It covers both scenarios.

No. Never substitute a CR1130 for an LR1130. The CR1130 is a 3-volt lithium battery — exactly double the voltage of an LR1130. Installing it in a device designed for 1.5V will immediately overvoltage the electronics, burn out integrated circuits, watch movements, or display drivers.

Tools You Will Need

Step 1 — Open the Battery Compartment

1. Screw-back watches: Use a case-back wrench or coin slot. Turn counterclockwise.

2. Snap-back watches: Locate the small notch at the case edge. Insert a plastic pry tool and gently twist — never use a metal blade.

3. Calculators and other devices: Slide the battery cover or remove one screw from the battery tray.

Step 2 — Remove the Old Battery

Use plastic tweezers or wrap a finger in a cotton glove. Note the orientation: positive (+) side faces up in almost all button cell applications. Photograph the old battery before removing it.

Step 3 — Install and Test

1. Confirm the new battery label matches the required type (LR1130/AG10, 389, or 390).

2. Slide the battery into the compartment with the positive (+) face up.

3. Close and reseal. For snap-back cases, press firmly around the edge until you hear a click.

4. Test the device immediately.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

How to Identify a Counterfeit LR1130 Battery

1. Weight: A genuine LR1130 weighs approximately 1.2g. Counterfeits are often lighter (0.8–1.0g).

2. Label printing: Genuine batteries have crisp, even printing. Counterfeits often show blurry text or misaligned brand marks.

3. Voltage test: A fresh genuine LR1130 measures 1.5–1.55V unloaded. Below 1.45V on a brand-new battery is a red flag.

4. Source: Buy from authorized distributors or brand-name retailers. Avoid unbranded multi-packs from unverified sellers.

Q1: What is the LR1130 battery equivalent?

A: The LR1130 is equivalent to AG10, LR54, 189 (Energizer), and GP189 — all alkaline, 1.5V. For better performance, use silver oxide equivalents: 389 (SR1130W, high drain) or 390 (SR1130SW, low drain). All fit the same 11.6×3.1mm compartment.

Q2: Is LR1130 the same as AG10?

A: Yes. AG10 is the Asian market retail name for the same alkaline button cell. LR1130 (or LR54) is the IEC/manufacturer designation. They are chemically and physically identical.

Q3: Can I replace LR1130 with 389 or 390?

A: Yes — silver oxide 389 and 390 are drop-in replacements that perform better than alkaline LR1130. They provide more stable 1.55V output and typically last 50–80% longer. The 0.05V difference is harmless to standard LR1130 devices.

Q4: What is the difference between 389 and 390 batteries?

A: Both are silver oxide, same size, same voltage. The 389 (SR1130W) is a high-drain version for digital watches, alarms, and backlights. The 390 (SR1130SW) is a low-drain version for analog quartz movements. When unsure, choose 389 — it works in both scenarios.

Q5: Can I use CR1130 instead of LR1130?

A: Absolutely not. A CR1130 is a 3V lithium battery — double the voltage of LR1130. Installing it in an LR1130 device will destroy the electronics. Check the label: if it says CR or shows 3V, it cannot replace an LR1130.

Q6: Are LR1130 and LR44 the same?

A: No. Both are alkaline button cells at 1.5V, but different sizes. LR44 measures 11.6mm × 5.4mm — nearly twice as thick as LR1130 (3.1mm). An LR44 will not fit in an LR1130 slot.

Q7: How long does an LR1130 battery last?

A: In a typical analog quartz watch: alkaline LR1130 lasts 1–2 years; silver oxide 390 lasts 2–3 years. In a digital watch with backlight and alarms: a 389 lasts approximately 1–1.5 years. Shelf life for unused batteries: 3–5 years for alkaline, up to 10 years for silver oxide.

Q8: Can LR1130 batteries be recharged?

A: No. LR1130, 389, and 390 are all primary (single-use) batteries. Attempting to recharge them can cause leakage, venting, or rupture. There are no rechargeable equivalents in the 11.6×3.1mm format.

Q9: How do I know if my LR1130 battery is genuine?

A: Three checks: (1) Weight — genuine LR1130 weighs ~1.2g; significantly lighter is suspect. (2) Voltage — fresh genuine cell reads 1.50–1.55V unloaded. (3) Source — buy from authorized distributors or brand-name retailers, not unbranded bulk lots from unverified sellers.

For sourcing LR1130, AG10, 389, or 390 batteries with verified authenticity, contact Welllinkchips for bulk pricing and full traceability.